Gangotri, Gomukh and the Ganges

Suhas Dutta

This was a strange one for me. Yeah, I have been in the mountains a bit, and do dream of becoming a mountain guide. But, this one trip proved some things that I did not think about. Quite a few years after my previous trek and after gaining quite a few kilograms on my body, the mountains beckoned again. This was somewhere in 1995 May, when two of my colleagues at work and I suddenly came up with the idea of trekking to see the place where the Ganges is seen first in India. Gomukh, it was to be. It took us very little time to finalise plans, book bus tickets from Delhi to Rishikesh. Delhi Tourism does run a daily bus to Rishikesh. The bus starts from the Coffee Home in Connaught Place. So there we were, 3 of us. One guy is okay shape, with some trekking experience, the second never seen mountains or snow in his life and me, the overweight and out of shape.

Anyways, it was a pleasure to get away from the blistering 42oC heat in Delhi and get to Rishikesh, which was just about a shade better. We landed up at a big room (with just one ceiling fan) in a small hotel. We came back to our room after dinner and realised, sleeping indoors was an impossibility. So, we pulled out our sleeping bags and lay down in the courtyard to wake up early in the morning to bhajans being blaired out of loudspeakers from the nearby temple. Well, the good thing was that we managed to wake up early and get going to the bus station to catch a bus to Uttarkashi.

Managed to catch a bus, a little late in the day. We managed to reach Uttarkashi at about early evening. On the way we passed the massive but halted construction of the Tehri Dam. We stopped at a place called Srinagar for a break and lunch. The place was so very dirty that it was not funny. So, lunch was postponed till further decision was taken. We picked up a few packets of biscuits and ate them in the bus.

Managed to find a hotel in Uttarkashi and went out to see the town. The town showed tell tale and visible signs of the very damaging earthquake two years back. There still was rubble, some buildings still exhibited scar like cracks and there was plenty of army assisted construction on everywhere. We went on to see the Ganges. Looked deep and ferocious, quite unlike the life giving and gentle Ganga that all Hindus are told about when they are young. Found out where the bus for Gangotri leaves from and mentally prepared ourselves for the next day. There is one thing that I must narrate. We visited this newish looking restaurant for dinner. A restaurant made to serve to the people reaching their urban yuppiedom and getting bewildered in the process. So, this restaurant served dosas, idlis etc from the South, parathas from the north and pizzas from, err, I guess from Uttarkashi. Those kind of pizzas, I am certain, had nothing to do with Italy or even Chicago. The fun did not stop there. The waiters kept mixing up orders. We got more than we ordered, but were charged for less. Waiters would be going around with food asking who ordered it. It was a riot.

Next morning we found ourselves in the bus to Gangotri. Its a beautiful drive, but a steep one. The road goes along the meandering Ganges. There is this small hamlet, a few kilometers from Gangotri, called Harshil. Its a hamlet covered with tall conifers overlooking the river. Its very scenic and serene. Just before the hamlet is a small army base, with its own helipad marked with the huge H. There are signs all over prohibiting photography. I never really realised the sense in posting 'no photography' signs near these places. As if the government wants to tell people that a security sensitive area is nearby. And in this day and time of satellites, who needs a 35mm camera to spy?





























On From Gangotri

We reached Gangotri at about noon, maybe a little later. We were ravenously hungry, so we gorged on aloo parathas and lassi and started on the trek on a full stomach. The trek did not seem imposing at all, it was just 14 kilometers to Bhojbasa (the last sort of habitation near Gomukh). We went down to the river to have a look, crossed the nearby helipad and climbed some 90 - 100 large steps to get on to the trail. It is then that we realised the folly of having had a lunch like that. By the time we hit the trail, I was panting.

Fortuntely, this trail is rather well marked. With mileposts, or should I say metre posts. Markings every 100 metres that is. The trek perhaps is not so bad as we felt it at that time, because of our foolishness to stuff ourselves with food. Anyways, we trudged along, stopping perhaps every 100 or 200 metres to rest and gulp a bit of water. It was not very cold and we did not have too much warm clothing. I remember having just a t-shirt and a sweat shirt on my torso. I was sweating before long, but then I was also carrying lots of common pool luggage. At one of the brief halts, I realised that I was the only experienced (though out of shape) trekker; so I had to tell my trek mates not to take the back packs off but rest it against the rock faces, eat a little bit of glucose powder from time to time, relax and tighten the waist, sternum and the back straps of the backpack from time to time. And had to tell them not to worry too much about the heavy breathing, because it was rarefied air after all.

We trudged on, taking a peek once in a while to the Ganges flowing about five or six hundred feet below in the gorge, glaciers on the hills opposite. It was not long before the sun's light started growing dim and it began to worry us. We were just about done with 4 kilometres. By this time, though tired, we had got our rhythm and were able to do about 400- 500 metres without break. And well, though we did not give it too much of a thought, somewhere about 2 kilometres from Gangotri, the trees flanking the trail dissappeared and the landscape was quite barren and the trail rocky.





























Stopping at Chirbasa

Just before sun down we managed to reach Chirbasa. This is a tea house in the middle of nowhere, with a few tents and some sign of life. A cup of steaming tea, a change of my t-shirt, and I had more will power than energy. There was not too much choice because all the beds at Chirbasa were already taken. So, we had to make it to Bhojbasa anyhow. We also realised our second mistake at this time. We should not have left so late in the day from Gangotri. Left with no choice, mustering our courgage we started again. Not much later, it started getting dark and cold. Very soon, a small mishap happened. In the low light, I misjudged a step, almost got my ankle twisted, managed to get out of the twist, but ended up with a nasty calf muscle cramp. This halted us for about half an hour. At that time, when every minute counted, half an hour of time wasted was absolutley invaluable.

We had a torch (fortunately) between us, so I got in the middle of the column and held the torch, one of the guys picked up some of my load, and the most inexperienced amongst us led. We let him do that because he would be more careful than the other two of us. We do not know how we managed the rest of the route, but we did. On the way we crossed a narrow but about a 300 foot ditch. There was a log which joined the two sides (the other some logs had gotten washed away some days back), which we crossed in pitch dark, not realising what we were crossing.

Quite a while later, we saw some lights and realised that we were somewhere near Bhojbasa. We flashed our torchlight for a while, without any luck or response. We suddenly found the trail blocked with stones. Evidently just before sun down, the guest house people do that to prevent trekkers from going forward. But, this caused us a major problem. We could not find a trail to get to the gues house which was about 500 feet lower. It took us about half an hour to scramble down through the hill side to get there. There is also this small temple with a darmshala (Lal Baba's Ashram) where we took temporary refuge. We were served hot tea, which worked wonders. We walked down to the guest house only to realise that they were about to do their lights out in another 15 minutes. Since they have no electricity connection, they run their diesel generators for a few hours each evening. It dawned upon us very quickly what would have happened to us, had we not seen those lights. And thanked our stars.

We did get hot food, at exhorbitant prices. But, that did us a world of good. We were shown to the dormitories; We realised that one should start early from Gangotri to be one of the first to reach Bhojbasa. There are two multiple-bedded rooms at the rest house, which are generally allotted on a first-come-first-served basis. We did not get nice places, but we just crashed out, I managed to wake up early (don't ask me how) at about 4, to finish my morning ablutions.





























Towards Gomukh

Walking about in the morning, I realised how much my leg was aching (from last evening's cramps). This became a cause for worry, since I did not know if I should trouble my legs more and try to get to Gomukh which was another 4 kilometres of a climb. But, then it came down to mind over matter. How could I come all this way and not see Gomukh? Had to be done. I mustered enough courage and walked out of the GMVN guest house to see one of the most spectacular sub bursts I have seen in my life. Here it is for you.

After some hot tea, we started on our trek towards Gomukh. The trail climbs up sharply from the guest house and then comes down a bit to follow the meandering and roaring river. Shortly after, its all barren and not even a blade of grass anywhere. But, there were some dark coloured small birds around. This part of the trek did not seem difficult except for my hurting leg. It did not seem to cold either though we were surrounded by glaciers. Perhaps because of a clear sky and bright sun. A kilometer or so before Gomukh we found this small waterbody, which seemed to have collected rain water. This small pool with turquoise water gave a very surreal appearance. The trail had loose pebble and dirt. Reason to be careful, I guess. The glaciers on the opposite bank were slightly brownish in colour, because of their age and dirt. Once in a while, a chunk of the glacier would break and fall into the river with a splash. There were a few pieces of rock falling on the trail too. The ambience was a little eerie, I admit.

Suddenly, we were able to see the Gomukh. This is what it is. The Ganges originates in Tibet, near the Mansarovar lake (as do the Yamuna and Brahmaputra) and flows underground to surface for the first time at Gomukh. The river comes out from inside a glacier, the opening is said to look like the mouth of a cow. With all my gestalt powers, I could not figure any resemblance between a cow and the glacial opening. But, its eerie and quite awe inspiring all the same. The focus of one's mind shifts towards the river and the layers of age old ice that form the roof of this gigantic ice cave as one slowly treks forward. It is all so quiet except for the roar of the river. There is actually nothing else that you can hear. One really seems to be enveloped by this lack of sound. We trudged along a bit more as the path rose a bit above the river bed and then we closed up to the rock face on the right bank of the glacier where the river appears.

I am not an aethist, but not too much of a practising man. When we sat down to rest on a boulder right in front of the cave, the atmospehere did raise a different kind of feeling. Something, one feels very rarely, perhaps when faced with something too huge or big to comprehend. Something there touched a nerve and made me confirm my belief in His presence. We sat there for about a couple of hours, taking in the whole scenario. I do remember that none of us spoke for that period of time. All of us seemed to be lost in thought and maybe the trek mates of mine were feeling what I was feeling too. This is a feeling, which is I fail to describe to clearly, remembering it gives me goose pimples even now. This is something which will never get erased from my memory.

There was this German couple who came in sometime later, and proceeded to have a bath in the river. I would have frozen to death, got hypothermia, pneumonia or all of the above. We dropped our backpacks and walked about a bit. Filled some of the river water in water bottles to take home. Washed our faces in the water, hands and feet too. And sat there, right next to the river again for some more time, barefeet this time.





























Beating the Retreat

The afternoon sun made us realise that it was time to return. Unwillingly, we made ourselves get ready and start on the return journey to Bhojbasa. We returned hungry like wolves and very tired. Had some strange tasting but hot and over priced food. We whiled away the afternoon outside, constantly thinking of the experience and clicking a few pictures.

The next day we gingerly trekked back to Gangotri, taking even less than half the time it had taken us to get to Bhujbasa. However, we were put to our places by this youngster (who works at the guest house at Bhujbasa), who started after we did, crossed us on the way down and we were about half way down when he crossed us again in the opposite direction. After a semi long day, the sight of Gangotri was welcome. We needed to find a place to spend the night. We managed to find this GMVN run guest house on the other bank. It was clean and people were corteous. By evening, I noticed the blisters on my feet and the real after effects of punishing my sprained leg. A hot water bath helped immensely.

The next day we started on our way back to Uttarkashi and onward to Delhi, with its miserable heat and dust. You don't want me to write about that, do you?

theteam@delhigate.com
New Delhi, India

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Last Modified Sunday, April 04, 1999 19:40:28