If pictures speak a thousand words, then the temples of Khajuraho form a magnum opus... an expression of Indian sculptors of yore. A UNESCO World Heritage site, these temples of Khajuraho were built by the Chandela kings following the tradition of Tantric art. Although famed for their erotic sculptures, the philosophy behind the temples is much more vast and encompassing. They are in fact a celebration of life! Khajuraho derives its name from the Khajur tree (the date palm tree) which abound a plenty in the region.The construction of these temples began in the reign of King Yasovarman. Eighty five of these temples were built of which around twenty two survive today. These temples are divided into three geographical blocks: the western, eastern and the southern. The western block is the biggest and the richest in artistry.
The frank depiction of uninhibited sex does hint towards a liberated society and times where people believed in dealing openly with all aspects of life. The graphic and realistic illustrated scenes of lovemaking elaborated on the Tantric texts. However, the depiction of sex forms only a small fraction of the total carving at Khajuraho. Yet the current notoriety of the temples centres unfortunately only on the eroticism. Though the southern and the eastern blocks are quite well made in their own right, they do not match up with the magnificence of the western block. In the tourist season the number of tourists in Khajuraho easily outnumbers the locals. Three scheduled flights each day and chartered flights bring in hordes of tourists each day. The town Khajuraho is quite different though, all with its luxury hotels and eateries. The eateries here range from the budget places serving Indian food to the so called Italian. However, there are two restaurants which stand out. One is the Raja's Cafe, built around a tree right in the city centre. It is run by a Swiss lady who settled down here long back. The other place, a little off, is called the Safari. The Chausath Yogini (sixty four yogis) temple is the oldest of all the temples and was built somewhere around 935AD. This temple is in ruins and has been barricaded by the ASI to prevent more damage.
Matangeswara Temple: This temple built of sandstone is dedicated to Shiva and enshrines one of the largest Shiva-lingas of North India. Lakshmana Temple: This temple dedicated to Vaikuntha–a form of Vishnu, distinguished by 3 heads respectively of lion, man and boar, is the earliest and best preserved temples of Khajuraho. Viswanath and the Nandi Temples: True to its traditional name Viswanath, it is dedicated to Shiva. Although, the stone linga alone survives today, there is no doubt by its architectural grandeur and sculptural exuberance, that it is a monument worthy of a king. The Nandi temple is really a pavilion containing a colossal image of Nandi, the bull mount of Shiva and does not have the complete architectural setup of a temple. Kandarya Mahadev Temple: Enshrining a marble Shiva-linga, this temple is the largest and the loftiest monument of Khajuraho. This temple also displays the best artistry among all the temples in this town. The sculptures on this temple are conspicuously slender and taller, and show the richest variety of nymphs in lively postures. Chitragupta Temple:The only sun temple at Khajuraho, it is constructed in close proximity to the Chopra Tan—a deep, 3 storeyed well built by the Chandela Rulers. Jagadambi Temple: Essentially a replica of the Chitragupta temple, in respect of design, dimensions and decorative schemes, it is the last temple in the western block. Brahma Temple so called because of the four-faced linga, which now forms the main deity of the shrine. Three faces of the linga are benign whereas the Southern face shows a skull on the "jatamukta", protruding eyes and a gaping mouth. This temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu as is evident from the carvings on the doorways. Vamana Temple is dedicated to Vamana (dwarf) incarnation of Vishnu. Unlike the other temples, erotic scenes are conspicuous here by absence, except in the roof pediments. Javari Temple: Again dedicated to Vishnu, this is a small, well proportioned shrine. The temple is a gem of architecture and is remarkable as much for its ornate entrance, as for the slender soaring outline of its spire. Ghantai Temple: The Ghantai temple is locally so called on account of the chain-and-bell (ghanta) motifs carved prominently on its tall pillars. The Ghantai is dedicated to the Digambara sect of Jainism. Parsvanatha Temple: Of all the local Jain temples, the Parsvanatha is the best preserved and indeed one of the finest temples in Khajuraho. Adinatha Temple: The temple enshrines a modern image of Adinath in place of the old one of which only the pedestal has survived. Duladeo Temple: Dedicated to Shiva, this temple has many individual features which distinguish it from the rest of the Khajuraho temple. The dancing nymphs and flying angels show vigorous tension and dynamic movement. The sculptures are generally stereotyped and are overburdened with ornamentation. Chaturbhuja Temple: This temple enshrining Shiva, is the only temple in Khajuraho where erotic sculpture is absent. Khajuraho depicts the Indian society which combined art and science with spirituality and sexuality. And all this happened at a time when today's developed nations were in their dark ages. Tantric philosophy divides the cosmos into the male and female principle. Male principle is said to possess the form and potential while the female has the energy. Neither the male or the female is complete without the other. Hinduism does talk about the androgynous form in many places and also is depicted in the cave sculpture of the androgynous Shiva in the elephanta caves near Bombay. This is vouched for also by Taoism with the concept of the ying and the yang. The Hindu and Tantric philosophy says that the whole universe is based on the union of male and female. Intercourse depicted in sculptures points to the metaphysical; for the merging of inner energies, achievable through meditation. In the ultimate union, one sees love overflowing the body and soul. The sculptures attempt to describe this sublime love. According to the Kamasutra, sexual enjoyment goes hand in hand with the moral, material and spiritual well-being of a person. And sex is not considered sinful as it is by the western philosophies. The whole point of the Kamasutra and the temples at Khajuraho, is to regulate and become perfect masters of sex, rather than be a slave to it. Dedicated to various gods and goddesses, the temples depict the equality of sexes that must have once existed in this country. The position of the women as described in the sculptures does talk of a society much advanced. Enjoyment is an essential step to renunciation, as detachment is achieved only by going through and overcoming all attachments.
The temples, with all their glory are not too well protected. There have been cases of vandalism in the pas. Now, unfortunately they are suffering damage because of the sound and vibration from aircraft operating from the airport which is only 3 km away. In spite of all their efforts, the Archeological Survey of India has not been entirely successful in restricting the damage being caused to the temples. |
The sheer
elegance and grace seems to have been chiseled by the
craftsmen. Their patient hands have transformed even the
mundane to excellence, from a maiden stretching her limbs
in the morning, to one wringing water out of her hair
after a bath to a surasundari taking out a thorn
out of the sole of her foot. Besides erotic sculptures
there are court scenes and scenes of battle and advice to
the citizens of the kingdom. It is very interesting to
note the tremendous eye for detail in these sculptures
like the depiction of strained muscles and cuts on the
calf muscles or the biceps.
Varaha Temple: This small rectangular temple, supported on
12 pillars, is built on a rock foundation and has a
pyramidal roof of receding tiers. In the middle of the
shrine stands a colossal monolithic image of Varaha
(Boar), one of the ten incarnations of Vishnu, in glossy
yellow sandstone. Most of the temples in Khajuraho are
dedicated to one of the holy trinity of the Hindu Gods
(Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the
destroyer)
One notices as one inspects the
temples that as one proceeds towards the garbha griha (or
the sanctum sanctorum) of the temple, the walls get bare
and simple. The riot of activity on the outer wall of the
temple is in stark contrast to the serene inner sanctum,
where the only figure is that of the god. This is to
indicate that as we approach the constant, the truth (or
God) we move away from what is worldly and away from the
bindings of Maya. In this there is a conscious attempt to
lead us from the numerous outward activities to the
focused inner spirit; from a fluid facade to a stable,
inner aspect. Temples at Khajuraho are a celebration of
man as the image of god and man's body as the house of
God.
theteam@delhigate.com
New Delhi, India
Send Feedback to: Webmaster